Ausflug nach Rakousko – Grossglockner a Grosser Priel

Vydáno: 17. ledna 2011 | Autor: rattlesnake.andy | Rubriky: Geoprojekty a akce | Tisk

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Jak tohle začalo? Asi takhle, byla zrovna polovina dubna, maturita klepala na dveře, a tři kamarádi a spolužáci z jednoho pražského gymnázia měli spoustu věcí na práci, jen ne učit se.

Naší hlavní prioritou bylo konečně někam v létě vyrazit, nejlépe mimo republiku. Nejvíce zcestovalý Dan navrhnul výstup na 2515 metrů vysoký Grosser Priel, nejvyšší horu pohoří Totes Gebirge (v překladu Mrtvé hory) v Rakousku. Nadšeně jsme souhlasili a začali plánovat. No a takhle to nakonec všechno proběhlo:

Mobil ukazoval šest ráno dne jedenáctého září, léta Páně 2010. Zamáčkl jsem příšernou melodii budíku a jal se budit dva mudlokamarády, se kterými to ani nehlo. Po vydatné snídani (jeden rohlík s máslem a zbytkem sýra) jsme osedlali a plně naložili našeho Fordíka a cca v půl osmý vyrazili směr Rakousko. Bylo hezky, skoro žádný provoz. První zastávka se uskutečnila v Českých Budějovicích, protože žaludky se začaly ozývat. Zastavili jsme tedy u Globusu a doplnili chybějící potraviny a tekutiny. Před hranicemi už na mě Fusion signalizoval, že mu dochází šťáva, krátká občerstvovací zastávka to však napravila. Projeli jsme Dolní Dvořiště a už jsme svištěli směr Linz. Nájezd na dálnici jsme oslavovali, protože začal houstnout provoz.

Ještě před samotným výstupem jsme se rozhodli si pobyt v Alpách trochu zpestřit a udělat si mírnou zajížďku. Jejím cílem byla slavná Grossglockner Hochalpenstrasse. Musím říct, že pro mě jako začínajícího řidiče to byl neuvěřitelný zážitek. Plně naložený Fusion už nechtěl ty škrpály vyjíždět ani na dvojku, spotřeba benzínu rapidně vzrostla. Ale stálo to za to. No a zde přišly na řadu i kešky. Doma jsem si našel tři krabky, které jsou uložené hned u cesty. Byly to kešky Hochmais, Höhe 2000 a Fuschertörl. Odpočívadla a různá jiná parkoviště jsou tam co tři sta metrů, takže zastavit a odlovit nebyl problém. Na vrcholu, na Kaizer Franz Josef höhe, kde se nachází i několikapatrové parkoviště a keška Großglockner Hochalpenstraße - Da Glockner, následovala opět pauza, nekonečné kochání výhledem na ledovec, Grossglockner a ostatní vrcholy, focení, opět kochání, opět focení, sledování v té době už slušně vyžraných svišťů, občerstvování a nakonec střídání za volantem a stejnou cestou návrat na výchozí bod výstupu na Grosser Priel.

Onen výchozí bod se nacházel u jezera Almsee, ke kterému se dostanete, když z dálnice sjedete u města Gmunden a následně podle ukazatelů dojedete do městečka Grünau im Almtal. U jezera se nachází velké parkoviště, kde jsme ten večer přespali a nechali tam po následující čtyři dny odpočívat auto.

První fáze výstupu

Probudili jsme se do mlhavého rána. Mlha byla tak hustá, že nebylo vidět na pět metrů. Trošku mi zatrnulo. Naštěstí se vyčasilo a během hodiny se mlha začala zvedat a na nás začaly mávat hory. Rychlá snídaně, tentokrát instantní mysli, a vzhůru do oblak. Z počátku se šlo jen do mírného kopce, převážně vyschlým korytem sezónních vodních toků. Řeknu Vám, nechtěl bych se tu nacházet, když nahoře taje sníh, to musí být hukot. Cestou jsme minuli zbytky vodopádu, na jaře určitě mnohem silnějšího. Po hodince a půl skončila ta lehčí část dnešního dne. Před námi se tyčila na první pohled takřka svislá stěna. Na druhý pohled už tak svislá nebyla, ale i přesto to bylo docela hustý oproti dosavadnímu průběhu. Naštěstí značení cest je tu na vysoké úrovni, takže nehrozí, že byste se tu ztratili. Strmé stoupání vedlo převážně po vyšlapané cestičce, jen občas bylo potřeba použít žebříky či se přidržovat ocelových lan.

Po třech hodinách stoupání jsme se konečně vydrápali do prvního záchytného bodu našeho výstupu. Před námi se rozprostírala plošina Röllsattel s nadmořskou výškou 1755 metrů a z ní nádherný výhled na Dachstein. Plošina byla samá skála, občas klečový porost. A tady jsme si měli najít místo kam upíchnout stan. Po asi hodině zoufalého hledání a pomalého stmívání se zadařilo a nalezli jsme travnaté místo 2x2 metry, akorát na náš stan. Následovalo hledání vody a rychlá večeře. V noci jsem se neustále budil, stále se mi zdálo, že slyším kroky, i když od stezky jsme byli poměrně daleko a navíc dobře skryti. A eště ke všemu mě tlačil do zad kámen.

Neduhy počasí

Druhý den výstupu byl utrpení od rána do večera. Během noci totiž přišly mraky, které nás naprosto zahalily, a ještě k tomu začalo pršet. Voda skrápěla náš stan celý den. Dlouhou chvíli jsme si krátili karetní válkou, pokrem o drobáky a tramvajenky a nebo jídlem :-) Ještě že jsme měli takové zásoby. Jediný problém byl, že tři chlapi celej den ve stanu, kde se větrá jen když jde jeden nedobrovolník vypnout stěny aby neteklo dovnitř, no jak to říct kulantně, prostě byl tam smrad jak ve vopičárně. Ale v noci se zase dobře spalo, i když mě stále budily ty kroky...

Další den ráno, když se mi povedlo rozlepit oči, jsem se modlil, aby už nepršelo. Měli jsme štěstí, oblačnost se trhala, pršet přestalo, bylo vidět dál než na konec natažené ruky a já konečně objevil původce těch kroků uprostřed noci. Asi třicet metrů od našeho stanu se páslo stádo kamzíků. To byl pro mě neuvěřitelný zážitek. Nikdy dřív jsem je ve volné přírodě neviděl. Byl bych se jimi kochal celý den, ale vzhledem k nestálosti počasí jsme museli urychleně vyrazit.

Následoval další ostrý výstup, který nás vynesl na další plošinu, po které jsme se dostali do sedla Fleischbanksattel ve výšce 2122 metrů nad mořem. Zde jsme si po vydatném obědě (kus vysočiny s instantní kaší) nechali bágly a vyrazili na finální výstup na vrchol. Šílená stoupačka nás dostala do výšky okolo 2500 metrů. Bohužel, všudypřítomné mraky nám nedovolily moc se rozhlížet, ovšem občasnými dírami bylo vidět nádherné panorama Totes Gebirge. Na vrchol Grosser Prielu jsme přešli přes hřeben, který vzhledem k počasí byl docela psycho. Díra nalevo i napravo, dno nebylo vidět, ale bylo to hluboko. Nic pro lidi se závratí. Vrchol jsme dobyli 14. září okolo druhé hodiny odpolední. Na velkém červeném kříži byla uchycena krabička s návštěvní knihou, do které jsme se zvěčnili. Poblíž vrcholu se nachází i keška 9 summits - Oberösterreich, kterou jsem plánoval odlovit jako svojí stou. Jediný problém byl v tom, že se nacházela pod poslední hromadou sněhu v širokém okolí. Zklamání z nenalezení kešky ovšem nemohlo pošpinit vynikající zážitek ze zdolání 2515 metrů vysokého Grosser Prielu.

Cesta dolů

Sestup byl pochopitelně mnohem rychlejší než výstup. Rozloučili jsme se s vrcholkem, v sedle sebrali batohy a vydali se k chatě Welser hütte, kde jsme chtěli přespat. Společnost nám dělali opět kamzíci a nově i kavče žlutozobé. Po příchodu k chatě nás nejdřív polilo horko. Byli jsme vyprahlí, hladoví a unavení a na dveřích byl nápis Zavřeno od 12. září, čili před dvěma dny. Koukali jsme po sobě a nevěděli co dělat. Naštěstí z chaty vylezl nějaký chlápek a ptal se odkud jdeme. Lámanou němčino-angličtinou jsme mu vysvětlili že jdeme z Grosser Prielu a chtěli jsme tu přespat. Naštěstí to byl frajer a ubytoval nás. Ovšem ještě lepší zpráva byla, že mají pivo!!! :-) Postel byla příjemná změna po dvou nocích s kamenem v žebrech, avšak ještě příjemnější bylo ráno zjištění ceny našeho pobytu na chatě. Pánové si řekli o neuvěřitelných devět euro dohromady za všechny tři noclehy a celkem šest piv... Prostě neuvěřitelné. Museli jsme je přemlouvat, aby si vzali alespoň celou desetieurovku.

Následoval rychlý sestup do údolí, ve kterém se z ničeho nic, nevím odkud, vynořila docela rychlá řeka, ve které jsme zchladili naše ušoupané a špinavé nohy. Teplota vody 5°C byla opravdu příjemná. Během dvou hodin jsme z údolí došli zpět k parkovišti u Almsee a s oddychem se shledali s naším motorovým ořem. Ve stánku jsme koupili pár pohledů a suvenýrů a vyrazili na dlouhou cestu domů.

Závěr? Závěr!

Co říci závěrem? Asi že to byl můj dosud nejlepší turistický zážitek. Totes Gebirge, to je místo, které na rozdíl od svého pojmenování, překvapivě kypí životem. Kamzíci, svišti, kozorožci, kavče žlutozobé, ale i koniklece alpské, to byl pro mě jako studujícího biologa sen. Na toto místo se určitě ještě mnohokrát vrátím, a to i kvůli tomu, že z vrcholku nebylo kvůli mrakům naprosto nic vidět, i kvůli tomu, že mi tohle místo během těch pěti dní přirostlo k srdci...

 

Kódy pokladů o kterých se zde psalo: GC1X9WZ, GC1EE9B, GC1WPB9, GC130VF, GCJVWM

Autor: rattlesnake.andy

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